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Understory is an award-winning worker-owned and community-built restaurant rooted in collective action where we use food, culture, and collaboration as tools for resistance. We are queer and POC owned, offering a vibrant and inclusive space where people can enjoy themselves, connect, and build community resilience.
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Building Worker Power Since 2020
Understory was founded in 2020 by Lily Fahsi-Haskell, Jenabi Pareja, Nino Serrano, and Florencio Esquivel to address the impact the COVID-19 pandemic was having on workers of color within the restaurant industry. With diverse backgrounds as chefs, artists, and movement organizers, we dared to create a collaborative restaurant model that centers worker agency, access, inclusion, and radical community care. Our governance model ensures decisions are made collectively, cultivating trust, accountability, and empowerment.
Understory is organized around a guiding set of political principles:
Empowering and Uplifting Communities of Color
Supporting Environmentally and Racially Just Food Systems
Affirming and Upholding Disability Justice
Acknowledging Our Role in Resisting Gentrification
Practicing Radical Honesty and Critical Self-Reflection
Building Economic Stability for Workers of Color
Disrupting State Violence
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The word "Understory" comes from the natural world, referring to the layer of forest that grows beneath the canopy, where diverse plants and life forms grow in harmony while supporting and nourishing the ecosystem as a whole. This term reflects the power of worker-ownership, where our collective strength is sustained by relying on one another while growing together.